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My WorkBench
Making a Fluorescent Inspection Light
Proportional Nut Spacing Rule
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Upgrading Loose Dremel Bearings
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Tom Ellis Precision Pearl Inlay - Austin, Texas
Shubb Capos - Valley Ford, CA
Rick Davis, Running Dog Guitars - Richmond, VT
Ted Megas Guitars - San Francisco
Collings Guitars - Austin, Texas
Hideo Kamimoto's Shop - San Jose, CA
1999 Northern California Ukulele Festival
Taylor Guitars - El Cajon, CA
Northwoods Guitar Repair Seminar 1998 - Big Rapids, MI
Northwoods Seminar 2000
1998 Acoustic Guitar Festival - San Rafael, CA
Guild of American Luthiers Convention, 1998
Mario Martello - It's Super Mario!
Mario's San Franciscan
Bills ABC Music - San Bruno, CA
Joe Grubaugh & Sigurn Seifert, Violin Makers - Petaluma, CA
Down in Brian's Basement - Palo Alto, CA
Roberto-Venn School of Luthiery- Phoenix, AZ
Special Features
C. F. Martin & Co., Nazareth, PA
Collings Guitars- Austin, TX
->Gibson's Acoustic Instrument Division, Nashville
Guitar Building with Jeff Traugott
CFox Guitars - Healdsburg, CA
Vogel Guitars - Quito, Ecuador
Kamaka Ukuleles - Honolulu
Tacoma Guitar Co.
U.S.A. Custom Guitars
Repair/Restoration Blogs
1867 Martin 1-26
1940 Martin D-28
1937 Martin D-28
1920 Gibson K-2 Mandocello
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A Quick Tour of Gryphon
Gryphon's 30th Birthday Party
Hey, it's Ramblin' Jack Elliot!
Cats and Jammers
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Guitar Finishing, Step by Step - by Dan Erlewine
Martin Guitars- by Richard Johnston & Jim Washburn
Gallery of New Instruments
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What They're Saying About Us
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Yowl-A-Lele
Alice's Gryphon Page
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Washburn Made a Lot of Everything
Father & Daughter United after 32 Years!
Gryphon's Famous Free Picks
Folk Art Gallery
Fine Art Instruments by Robert Armstrong
Every Circus Needs a SIDESHOW
The ORIGINAL Dreadnought!
Nothing Like Those Old Master Finishes
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dreadnought guitar.
my floor lamp.
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Home Shop Tech
HOME SHOP TECH Articles
#1 Sock Handle
#2 CD Paint Brush Can Cover
#3 Japanese Hand Saws
#4 Wax for Lubricating Saw Blades
#5 Pocket Knife
#6 Diamond Pocket Hone
#7 Air Blow Gun
#8 File Cleaning Trick
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#21 Stain Palette
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#28 Recycle Beverage Can
#29 Micrometer
#30 Toothbrushes
#31 Sander Safety
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#36 Bent File Chisel
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#38 Acetone Finish Test
#39 Bevel Fret Slot
#40 Solvent Cap Dispensing Cup
#41 Packing for Travel
#42 Pickup Brace Damage
#43 Coloring Glue
#44 Cutting Paper on Band Saw
#45 Quick Grip Brace Jack
#46 Wedge F-hole Clamp
#47 Guitar Wall Hanger
#48 Half Pencil
#49 Straw Pipette Extender
#50 X-brace Top Wrinkle
#51 Paper Pad Mixing Palette
#52 Fluorescent Replacement Bulbs
#53 Swing Arm Lamps
#54 Packing Pegheads
#55 Pyramid Bridge Clamping Caul - External
#56 Threaded Clamp Foot
#57 Masking Tape for Indexing Bridge
#58 Rubber Band Tuner Grommet Retainer
#59 Belt Sanding Celluloid
#60 Sharp Nut
#61 Side Crack Reinforcement
#62 Dry Pigment Sorting Block
#63 Paper Grain Direction
#64 Modify Drill Bit for Cutting Wood
#65 Fret Pullers Pull Other Things
#66 Heavy Duty Push Sticks
#67 Single Edge Razor Blades
#68 Acid Brushes
#69 Plastic Stretch Wrap for Tool Protection
#70 Bit Holder Blocks
#71 Cross Grain Sanding
#72 Truth in Labeling
#73 Plastic Wrap Glue Resist
#74 Cut Acid Brush
#75 Stretch Wrap Masking
#76 Spray Can Cap
#77 Spray Can Nozzle
#78 Kitchen Paring Knife for Shop Utility
#79 Powerless Belt Sanding
#80 Drill Index
#81 Grinder Support
#82 Leather Pliers Grip
#83 Paper Towel Holder
#84 Newspaper Drawer Liner
#85 File Handle
#86 Recycle Condiment Bottle
#87 Diagonal Cutter Selection
#88 Fatigue Mat
#89 Credit Cards
#90 PVC Shop Vacuum Tool
#91 String Retainer String
#92 Hex Wrench Rack Improvement
#93 Power Tool Casters
#94 Eyes and Ears
#95 Soft Vise Jaw Pads
#96 String
#97 Layout on Metal
#98 Storing Long Electrical Cords
#99 Hanging Coil Hoses
#100 Cutting Aluminum
#101 "Candling" Guitar Tops to See Brace Locations
#102 Locating and Tracing Braces with Magnets
#103 Foil Protection for Reamers
#104 Dry Sandpaper Lube
#105 Mixing Epoxy without Bubbles
#106 Spray Lube Siphon Tube Reinforcement
#107 Paper Towel Half Sheets
#108 Dusting Brush Modification
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#110 Catalog Sale Flyers
#111 Gluing Bin Boxes
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#121 Hacksaw Duplicate Parts
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#150 Photographs for insurance
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#152 Little Boxes - Get Rid of Lid
#153 Swivel Casters for Tool Cabinets
#154 "Temporary" tool stands
#155 Tool Drawer Dividers
#156 Rope Trick: Cutting
#157 Broom Handle
#158 Hand Drill Countersink
#159 Using Digital Calipers
#160 Identifying Metric Hex Keys
#161 Dremel Carbide Cutoff Wheel
#162 Fence Hand Safety
#163 Empty Bin Boxes
#164 Cutting Bin Boxes
#165 Camphor
#166 Decant Epoxy to Avoid Quick Reaction
#167 Epoxy Mixing on File Folder "Palette"
#168 Wood Screw Pilot Drill Size
#169 Reverse Switch Safety Bolt
#170 Keyless Chucks
#171 Work Glove Storage Rack
#172 Cutting Spring on Grinder
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#174 Label Those Drawers
#175 Extra Drill Chuck
#176 Sauce Pan
#177 Ball End Hex Wrench
#178 Poly Bottle Bottom for Parts Washing Basin
#179 Square Bottle Bottom for Parts Drawer Bins
#180 Screws in Jars
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#183 Repetitive Length Cutting on Band Saw
#184 Mark Up Your Ruler
#185 Plastic Containers and Solvents
#186 Mobile Bin for Wood Scraps
#187 Scrap Bin Cover
#188 Scrap Bin Triage
#189 Ball Peen Hammers
#190 Old Rags to Prevent Under Bench Hunting
#191 Storing Magetic pickup tools
#192 Duct Tape Mallet
#193 Cut Down Old Paint Brush
#194 Plastic Bag Makes Emergency Glove
#195 Break a File to Make Short Ones
#196 Magnets to Hold V-Block
#197 Steel Rules May Have Poorly Cut Ends
#198 Buy Files by the Box
#199 Battery Charger Maintenance
#200 Extending Cable Ties
#201 Miter Gauge Alignment
#202 Recycle Paint Thinner
#203 Spray Can Freshness Reminder
#204 Pipette Sealing Trick
#205 Cookie Sheet Chip Pan
#206 Extension Cord Strain Relief
#207 Super Glue "String Needle"
#208 Heavy Duty Extension Cords
#209 Magnetic Book Hangup
#210 Paint Special Tool Handles for Identification
#211 Hang up those brooms
#212 Wood V-Blocks
#213 Miter Gauge Rip Fence
#214 Writing on Saw Table
#215 Saw Table Wax Lube
#216 Toilet Paper
#217 Dispensing Paint
#218 Cutting Short Pieces on Band Saw
#219 Recyled Cardboard Box Tote
#220 Phonograph Needle Scriber
#221 Wall Mounted Tin Can Tool Holders
#222 Dental Floss Sewing Thread
#223 Cut Paper Towel Roll
#224 Hand Tool Oiler for Rust Protection
#225 Tool Instructions Taped Inside Drawers
#226 Forstner Bits in Aluminum
#227 No-Mess Spill Wiping
#228 Roll Wrapper as Spill Wiper
#229 Shop Rags from Bed Sheets
#230 Cutting Shop Rags on the Band Saw
#231 Rubber and Vinyl Mats on Concrete Floors
#232 Tape for Removing Splinters
#233 Cutting Steel Wool Pads
#234 Paint Can Lid Installation
#235 Pouring from Gallon Cans
#236 Cutting Clear Plastic on the Band Saw
#237 Masking Tape Dispenser
#238 Toothpick Brush
#239 Bailing Wire Spool Retainer
#240 Twisting Wire
#241 Penetrating Epoxy Sealer
#242 Remove that Acrylic Plastic Protective Sheet
#243 Hex Key Cheater Bar
#244 Sand Bags
#245 Label Special Tools and Fixtures
#246 Masking Tape Storage
#247 Paraffin lube for Band Sawing Aluminum
#248 Special Push Sticks
#249 Paper Towel Core for Cord Storage
#250 Skinny "Paintbrush Broom"
#251 Blow out Shop Apron Pockets
#252 Buy Good Hacksaw Blades
#253 Grind the "Set" from Blades to Get Narrow Kerf
#254 Convertible Step Stool
#255 Photograph Your Work
#256 Sweep the Floor
#257 Tool Cabinet "Breadboard" Shelf
#258 Hang Goggles Near Tools
#259 Mark Edges to be Cut
#260 Garbage Can Table Top
#261 Magnetic Spray Can Holder
#262 Removing Box Labels
#263 Simple Dolly and Hoist to Move Heavy Items
#264 Recording Lent Tools
#265 Abrasive Paper for Sharpening Chisels
#266 Close the Gap on Grinding Wheel Tool Support
#267 Keep Band Saw Blade Guide Low
#268 Used Engine Oil for Shop Duty
#269 Shop Vac Hose Hanger
#270 Grinding Center Punch Point
#271 Pilot Drill Size for Large Drill Bit
#272 Reverse Drilling to Enlarge Hole
#273 Drill Clamp Feet for Accessories
#274 Glass Microscope Slide Scraper
#275 Bubble Wrap Packing Trick
#276 Cold Chisel Safety Tip
#277 A Really Simple Drill Guide
#278 Drill Press Center Finder
#279 Split Point Drill Bits
#280 Variable Pitch Band Saw Blade
#281 Guitar Strings for Other Uses
#282 Cyanoacrylate Catalyst Bottle
#283 Mangetic Holder for Small Parts
#284 Drilling Cotton Buffs
#285 Diamond Grinding Wheel Dresser
#286 Heat to Remove Sticky Labels
#287 Paint Metric Wrenches
#288 Stackable Cottage Cheese Containers
#289 Aligning Wood Screw Slots
#290 Drilling Round Things
#291 Screw Machine Length Drills
#292 Relief Cuts on Bandsaw
#293 Cross Cutting Long Board on Band Saw
#294 Glue Quick Grip Pads
#295 Resealing Caulk Cartridges
#296 Cyanoacrylate as Wood Sealer
#297 Messy Milling Project
#298 Drill Press Can Cut You When it's Turned Off
#299 Get a Big Vise
#300 Friendly Plastic Ergonomic Handles
#301 Mount Stuff on Cabinet Doors
#302 Wall Bumper Near Electrical Plugs
#303 Keep Dustpan in Trash Can
#304 Ice for Cooling at the Grinder
#305 Making Heavy Twine from Thin
#306 Ice Cube Tray Parts Storage
#307 Cable Ties for Hanging Tools
#308 Cleaning Measuring Tapes
#309 CD-ROM Canister for Adhesive Tape Storage
#310 Split Rivets
#311 Impact Driver
#312 Repetitive Bandsaw Cuts
#313 Old Shower Curtain as Tarp
#314 Replace Thumbscrews on Machines
#315 Have a Little Fun
#316 Magnetic Wrench Holders for Power Tools
#317 Measuring Centers on Uneven Sizes
#318 Reconditioning Sharpening Stones
#319 Magnetic Tool Holders for Drawers
#320 Improvised Masking Tape Bandage
#321 Lok-Line as Flexible Support
#322 Clamping with Drill Press
#323 Camera Tripod Stabilizing Weights
#324 Computer Labels for Drawers and Boxes
#325 Extra Casters for Welding Cart
#326 Use Long Screwdrivers
#327 Soaking Parts in Solvent
#328 Making Safe Edge Files
#329 Cut Cans for Shop Use
#330 Magnets for Bending in Vise
#331 Non Matching Handles are Best
#332 Steel Strap Shim Stock
#333 Stretch Wrap to Secure Solvent Labels on Cans
#334 Mark Pipette Graduations
#335 Keep a Shopping List
#336 Label Unusual leftover Hardware
#337 Magnet to Hold Abrasive Strips on Lathe
#338 Handle to Replace Thumb Screw
#339 Magnet Holds Water Bath on Grinder
#340 Magnets Hold Drill Index on Drill Press Table
#341 Label Grit on Sanding Belts
#342 Mouse Pads for Drawer Liners
#343 Cutting Shallow Notches on Band Saw
#344 Clearing Dispenser Bottle Opening
#345 Faucet Washer as Tool Foot
#346 1-2-3 Clamp It
#347 Tubing for Grinder Support of Thin Pieces
#348 Ring Testing Grinding Wheels
#349 Support Thin Stock for Drilling
#350 Digital Caliper as Tweezer
#351 High Speed Steel Taps
#352 Plastic Bag Thread Protection for Jars
#353 Shop Vac Sock
#354 Bandsaw Thin Stock on Edge
#355 Shop Towel Identification
#356 Pennies are Worth Having
#357 Bag Loose Wires and Cables
#358 Pizza Boxes
#359 Timer for Heat and Fan
#360 Cardboard Floor Mats
#361 Chip Curtain
#362 Cigarette Papers
#363 Age Date Glue Containers
#364 Don't Crumple Old Notes
#365 T-Shirt Tool Cover
$366 Liquid Hand Cleaner
#367 Shop Shelving
#368 Foot Control for Bench Vise
#369 Adjustable Wrench as Caliper
#370 Milk Carton Drawer Bins
#371 Long Bin Boxes on Narrow Shelves
#372 Pencil Sander
#373 Garage Sale Items Can Have Interesting Uses
#374 Hanging Rag Storage
#375 Note Holder at the Door
#376 Simple Upgrade for Quick Grip Clamps
#377 Keep Project Inspirations Handy
#378 Mark Source and Cost on Stock
#379 Label the Size of Staples in Your Staple Gun
#380 Easy Handle for Small Heavy Stock
#381 Check Steel Before Filing
#382 Paint with Your Socks
#383 Centering a Drill on Round Stock
#384 Impromptu Large Hex Key
#385 Cutting "Half a Kerf" on the Band Saw
#386 Squeeze the Last Bit out of a Glue Tube
#387 Use a Copier for Quick "Drawings"
#388 Measuring Over a Ledge
#389 Clean up "Spun" Drill Bit Shanks
#390 Changing the Zero Point on Graduated Dials
#391 Dispensing Small Amounts from Spray Can
#392 Paint Can Opener
#393 Broken Files are Handy in Close Quarters
#394 Buy Small Containers of Some Stuff to Save Money
#395 Kitchen Towels Have Four Lives
#396 Solvent "Recycling" Trick
#397 Still Hung Up on Rags
#398 Simple Leather Finger Saver
#399 Missing Stud
#400 How Much is Left in That Paint Can?
#401 Storing Spare Parts for Machines
#402 Label Adjustment of tools or Gauges
#403 Simple Grinder Safety
#404 Lubricate Wood Screws
#405 Break the Corner for a Tight Fit
#406 Weak Thread Locking Compound
#407 Rope Burn Trick
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/Special Features/

Gibson's Factory at the Mall

This was converted from the original Frets.com site.
To view the original page click here

Lutherie in a Fishbowl, or "What's beyond Bed, Bath & Beyond?"
Gibson's Factory at the Mall

Not long ago, Gibson consolidated the Gibson and Flatiron mandolin, Gibson banjo and Dobro resonator guitar operations into a division called "Original Acoustic Instruments." Since then the folks who work in the OAI section have been moved around from one factory location to another. Now they have a home that can only be described as unique in the musical manufacturing industry, if not the entire field of manufacturing.

On the former site of the Opryland Theme Park, there stands a huge indoor shopping mall called Opry Mills. Gibson's OAI division occupies about 30,000 square feet at the end of the complex right next Bed Bath and Beyond. Here, all the instrument manufacturing takes place right in front of the public, in a sharp contrast to Gibson's very closed shops in Nashville and elsewhere.

Part One: Opry Mills - Public Area

That's Dan Erlewine standing in out beyond the parking lot entrance to the factory. The giant sign is in keeping with the decor on the outside of other businesses here. Notice the big fake smokestack. It's a replica of the stack on Gibson's original building in Kalamazoo, now occupied by the Heritage Guitar Company.

Walking inside, the first thing I saw was about 1,000 square feet of empty space with some display cabinets, which have been standing empty for about a year, waiting someday to become a museum or some such. Gibson's performance venue, closed during the daytime was off to the left. Looks like they have a bar there and could accommodate quite a crowd.

Following around inside to the mall's common area, you can see the interior presentation is even more flashy than the exterior. Not a typical manufacturing plant, that's for sure.

 The mall itself has the typical high tech looking shopping experience.

 The bass fishing store may be the biggest shop in the mall. Here, I came close to buying a really cool pillow in the shape of a dead fish!

OK, back to Gibson.

 On the mall side, all the manufacturing rooms have full windows so the public can step right up and see what's going on.

 Each area is neatly labeled. I wonder what the "danger" is to the public watching the buffing area. Maybe they mean that if you tap on the glass, somebody will drop a Dobro!

 Outside the manufacturing rooms, right in the main walkway of the mall, are three "kiosks" fitted with workbenches and tools. Additionally, there's this kiosk fitted with a cash register.

 You can play (and buy) every model instrument made here, except for the Master Model F-5 mandolin, which is in extremely limited production.

Here's a Sam Bush model, right on the counter, ready to go.

 You can also buy a variety of Gibson imprinted novelty items, T-shirts, and such.

 Above each kiosk is a giant replica of one of the instruments made here at Opry Mills.

 The technicians working in the kiosks are glad to pass the time talking to the public as they work.

 They're a friendly lot, and they work with the ease and confidence that only comes from experience

 They do the final assembly and setup right here. Occasionally, they have to slap the hand of a picker who reaches in too far to touch an instrument in progress. . .

 Skilled hand work, not elaborate fixtures, are the tools of the trade here.

 In a few display cases there are examples of some of the wild custom work that has been a hallmark of Gibson's style for 100 years.

Fancy carving, pearl, gold, engraving, exotic woods - how can that be enough when there's room for some rhinestones?

 Just look at this banjo resonator.

I couldn't bring myself to photograph the Jesus Christ celebrity model But just look at this fancy number.

Mighty cool illustrations and all.

I took this next bunch of photos right through the glass, just as so many tourists do as they pass by. He's sorting top braces for mandolins, by the way.

Believe it or not, all areas of the shop are completely visible to the public.

A shot of the Dobro area and a stack of resonator "sound wells," the structures that support the vibrating resonator cone.

The workers tell me that they are never distracted by the public looking in.

 Well, hardly ever.

A mandolin body gets a bit of detail work.

These are busy people with lots of work to do.

Some body sanding.

Final sanding a Dobro neck.

Even the spray booths have full glass walls so you can watch all the action. The glass is cloudy because of overspray, of course.

A batch drying.

The buffing area is spacious so there's little chance of workers bumping each other.

A wrong turn would send this Dobro body flying!

After the colored finish is applied, the binding gets scraped to reveal the contrast in color.

A little detail work before this banjo neck goes "into finish."

The man on the left is Charlie Derrington, head of R&D here. He met our group by the employee entrance to take us through the inside where we could really get in on the action.


Part Two: Inside the Factory - Banjo & Dobro Production

 On the inside, this factory is much like you'd expect. There's a bit of dust, noise, and the usual clutter of instruments in progress, parts, tools, etc.

 I was a bit surprised to see heavy equipment like these big shapers here. They are on the far side of the room, away from the windows. These tools are clearly the most dangerous in the shop, and the operator works facing away from the public.

 All the shapers are lined up against the far wall.

 At one end of the big machine room, there's a large dust collector.

Not all of the big tools are connected to the dust collection system. . .

A bunch of mandolin bodies in progress.

 Final sanding opposite the cafeteria line at lunch time. . .

 The view out the window from the banjo setup area.

 Jay Hostetler (in yellow) and Don MacRostie (far right), both from Stewart MacDonald, discuss the banjo parts they supply to Gibson. This was a business trip for all of us, you know.

 Everywhere you turn in this place, there are curious onlookers peering in through the windows.

 The Dobro assembly area.

 More folks like me, taking photos. . .

 This man has been shaping Gibson banjo necks for about 15 years.

 Armed with this big "dead head" belt sander, he can really plow through the wood.

 After working the shaft of the neck to shape, he rounds the areas at the heel and peghead volute.

 A bit of cleanup with a hand file.

 It took him about 5 minutes to go from the machined part in the foreground to the final shaped neck above. There's a lot of work left to do, but the major shaping is neat and clean.

 This shop made drum sander is used for adjusting the fit of the banjo neck to the shell.

 Speaking of shells, they're turned right here on this big lathe.

 Same for resonators.

I'm not sure, but I think he's aligning the cutout for the neck heel.

Final sanding with a "jitterbug" orbital sander.

Detail sanding the inside curves.

A banjo resonator gets the finishing touches.

In the banjo assembly area, finished resonators wait to be attached to RB-3, Earl Scruggs, RB-250, and other models.

And, here are the instruments in question.

Check out this Earl Scruggs Deluxe, with its mother-of-pearl binding. (The specks are dust from all the woodwork going on nearby.)

A gold plated "Granada" on the bench.

This gang saw receives a strip of basswood, and the little carrier is closed

Once closed, the carrier is shoved under the saw blades, neatly cutting the kerfed lining for Dobro guitars.

The lining is glued on while the sides are in the mold, mounted on this free standing work station.

Several stations allow for a good flow of work.

Backs and tops are glued on right in the same molds.

A Dobro neck is cut to shape on one of the big shapers along the back wall.

Nearby, a Dobro sound well is shaped in a router fixture.

Binding the body.

Gibson uses that same heavy brown masking tape I've seen at other factories. It's stronger and holds better than the usual cheap kind.

Final sanding a Dobro neck.

Stacks of Dobro bodies waiting to have necks fitted.

More detail work.

This is a metal body blues model with an interesting paint job.

In the spray booth for that famous shaded lacquer finish.

Buffing.

And more buffing.

Final assembly after finishing.

This is the peghead drill jig that's used to align tuner holes

Tuners in bulk pack.

Setup.

A rack of "product."


Part Three:
Mandolin Production - Master Model F-5

 I don't know about you, but I'm here to see how the famous F-5 mandolins are made. In particular, Charlie wants to show off his work on the replica 1922-24 Lloyd Loar model F-5, the "F-5 Master Model."

 Tops and backs come over from the big facility downtown, where CNC equipment does the rough carving.

 Here's a Derrington designed machine for bending the complex side of the F-5. The heavy aluminum parts are heated electrically, and air cylinders apply gentle pressure to form the sides, which have first been dunked in water for about 10 minutes.

 It's quite a trip to watch this thing do its job.

The simpler bends are done in a similar fashion.

Over in the assembly area, the sides go into molds where they are held as the various components are glued in place.

 Both inside and outside molds are utilized to keep the shape consistent.

 This one is done.

 Notice the indexing holes in the neck block.

 The shape is complex enough, so when a little extra pressure is needed in certain areas, simple wedges provide support.

 As with most any other instrument factory, there are little stacks of body parts lying here and there.

 Look closely a the underside of this mandolin top and you'll see the indexing pin that fits into the hole in the neck block. Little tricks like this make factory production run smoothly.

 Sorting and getting ready to fit top braces.

 Top braces, or tone bars, are hand shaped and hand fitted to the curvature of the top.

Tops and backs are clamped in place with these simple rigs.

 It doesn't take long to fit up a mandolin top and glue it this way, so there's no need for sophisticated tooling here.

 The heavy top caul gives good overall pressure as the glue sets. By the way, the Master Model is made entirely with hot hide glue, so it is necessary to clamp up quickly before the glue gels.

 A pair of backless bodies.

 Check this out. Charlie tells me that the original Loar model had the treble f-hole 1/16" higher than the bass one. (That's one feature I never noticed!) The idea was that the bridge would then appear to span the centers of the f-holes when it was slanted slightly for best intonation. The new Master Models are also built this way.

Both the tops and backs get glued on oversize. Then, the entire body is trimmed and edges sanded before the binding ledge is routed.

Now's the time for some final contour sanding.

A high speed air sander helps to "fair" out all the complex curves of the back and top.

Naturally, this area is where a lot of hand work is concentrated!

Binding the body takes quite a while, and is one of those finishing touches that take far more skill and effort than most folks realize.

Many of these instruments have little production notes written right on them as they go.

Some areas, like this point, will be covered with dark finish, so little chips can get filled without being noticed.

This one needs to have its binding leveled and final contours established.

Here's one I saw lying on a bench. A good cutaway view of the inside of an "A" style mandolin.

Guess we know what model this one will be!

 The centerline is an important thing to keep in mind as you're working with an asymmetrical body like the F-5

The cantilever support is glued to the neck block before the body dovetail is cut.

 Held in a special router fixture, the body gets cut for the dovetail joint. I wasn't able to photograph absolutely every stage of construction, so some of the pictures may seem a bit confusing or out of order. The dovetail joint is actually cut before the back is glued in place.

 Here's the result, with the back held in place.

 And, here's how the F-5 body looks just before the neck is attached. Notice that the back binding is not fully complete. That's because of the little section that must be fitted around the base of the neck. It's more accurate to do that piece after the neck is attached.

Starting to look like the real thing!

 Neck billets are cut out, and matching "ears" are glued to the peghead area.

 After a trip downtown to the CNC machine, neck blanks are ready for hand shaping, assembly and fitting up.

 Here's the blank as it arrives at Opry Mills.

 Lots of hand work left to do here! I was surprised to see how little actual CNC machining is utilized.

 Truss rods are fitted, and the adjusting nut pocket relieved for wrench clearance.

 Peghead binding is a real trial. Here, strips of binding are heated above an electric hotplate element.

 The heated binding is quickly formed around the peghead overlay piece.

 Sometimes, a mold is used as a form for bending binding.

 Good old cyanoacrylate. It's the right stuff to stick on ivoroid binding!

 A blast from a hot air gun helps cure the glue and relax the curved binding pieces.

 Miters are hand fitted, too.

 After the binding is completed, the entire overlay takes a trip over to the big belt sander, and is leveled and smoothed before gluing up to the peghead.

 Pegheads get a black veneer on the back, too.

 Here, the pehgead has been cut to shape, and the face veneer is being glued on.

OK, time to fit up a neck. That's one of the most nasty neck joints in the musical instrument business. Compound curves and angles run every whichaway.

This is an interesting fixture. It's a device that holds the neck as the dovetail is cut by hand on the bandsaw.

The neck is held in place on a kind of rocker table, which tilts from side to side.

Tilting the neck to the one side, the precise dovetail angle is cut on that side.

Then, clicking the holder to the other side, the opposite angle is established. Pretty slick stuff, but that still leaves a lot of hand fitting to do.

Each dovetail joint is hand carved to fit tightly.

Most of the work is done with chisels and gouges.

It takes a lot of trial fitting, whittling, filing and trying again. All the time, the proper alignment must be maintained

A special neck angle gauge simulates the height of the fingerboard, and guides the vertical alignment.

Most any day, you can walk right up to the window, and see a neck being hand fitted to a body.

After a couple hours' work, the neck fits just right. He's just holding a fingerboard in place so we get a better idea of the finished product.

Ready to glue up.

OK, no turning back now. This baby's set and glued.

An "A" style gets a bit of a peghead trim.

After the sunburst colors are applied, all the binding gets scraped clean.

 And scraped, and scraped.

 Here in the spray booth, clear coats go over the entire instrument.

 A bunch of mandolins drying.

 Looks like home to me.

More standard models in the spray booth.

Charlie shows us the backside of a new Sam Bush model.

 In fact, it's the next one actually headed for Sam Bush himself.

 The Master Model does not go through the same spray booth line. After final sanding, the entire instrument gets a brushed coat of gamboge, the natural yellow pigment used by the old Italian master violin makers.

 Then, the sunburst shading is produced by wiping and rubbing waterbased stain right into the wood.

 The Master Model gets a hand applied varnish finish. The varnish is made right here at Opry Mills using the classic old time Cremona formula.

 Here's a shot of the interior doors to the spray booths. The one in the foreground is a varnish curing booth. UV lights are used to cure the natural oils in the varnish. The curing time is reduced from months to days with the high intensity lights.

 After the varnish is cured, it gets a "scuff sanding" to level and prepare the surface for the final French polishing.

 Charlie and his assistant are the only ones who do the French polishing.

It takes a long time to produce the soft glow and level finish.

 There's nothing like it, though, for that old time shine!

 Only about 2 Master Models are made each month.

 He can work on a few instruments at once, with some drying overhead.

 Every bit of the instrument gets a slow going over.

From the cut of the wood to the glow of the finish, this mandolin looks every bit like its famous predecessors.

This one was just getting its very last setup operation while we visited.

 And, luckily, Charlie let me take it home on the plane. The first mandolin player who saw it on display at Gryphon snapped it right up!

Speaking of details, even the original patent stampings are reproduced on the bridge and fingerrest..

Here's Charlie, doing the final sign-off.


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